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Famous D-Pocket motorcycle jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281606876377
This vintage jacket was made in Canada by “Famous”. It is strongly reminiscent of the also Canadian-produced Brimaco D-Pocket motorcycle jacket, which was in turn inspired by the Design of Harley Davidson’s “Cycle Champ” D-Pocket. So although this one was produced in the 1960s, the design and detailing go back to the 1940s. The jacket has a map pocket with sub cigarette pocket, mirrored by a larger patch pocket on the other side of the asymmetrical zipper. The jacket has zipped cuffs with 1930s-1940s style cuff detailing. It has a plaid lining, and a Canadian produced (left tracked) Acme zipper.

Chest (pit to pit):24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

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1940s Albert Richard Horsehide bomber jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281606438407
This vintage jacket was made in the late 1940s by Fried-Ostermann under their Albert Richard Sportswear label. It is made of brown leather, which, though not labeled on the jacket as such, is called out in advertisements for this model as “Superior horsehide”. The jacket has a mouton collar, called “beavertex” by Albert Richard ads, handwarmer pockets and a zipped breast pocket. The main zipper is a Talon of mid 1940s manufacture, with a square cornered slider and Talon marked U shaped stopbox.
Chest (pit to pit): 20-1/2″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

A bit on the history of Albert Richard:
Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI. Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company. Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability. During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes. 850 workers were employed by Albert Richard in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers. Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war. President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores. Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.

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1920s Shawl Collar horsehide leather barnstormer jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271790736078
This vintage leather coat was made in the 1920s-early 1930s. It is made of black horsehide leather, worn to reveal brown tones and incredible grain. It has a broad brown mouton shawl collar. The coat is single breasted, with handwarmer pockets and flapped hip pockets. The coat has an original wool lining, with nylon on the back and sleeves, probably to replace a worn lining. There are storm cuffs under the buttoned cuffs to keep the wind out. These hip length shawl collar coats were popular in the early days of motorcycling and aviation.

Chest (pit to pit) 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 22″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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Japanese reproduction 1930s Joe McCoy horsehide halfbelt leather jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281632536165
This jacket was made in Japan by high-end vintage repro company, Real McCoys under the Joe McCoy & Co. Leather Clothing Sportswear label. Though made in Japan, for authenticity to original 1930s jackets, the label reads, “styled and tailored in Buffalo, NY”. The plaid lined pocketbag bears the union label of the now defunct United Garment Workers of America. It is made from black front quarter horsehide. The jacket is a 1930s cossack style, with a pleated, belted back, bi-swing shoulders, d-ring side adjuster belts, deco buttons, a Talon zipper with deco stopbox, pin-lock slider and reinforcement grommets, and a Talon marked ball zipper on the breast pocket. Although the tape, teeth and slider are all in excellent condition, the slider won’t currently engage the teeth. The jacket has a burgundy lining. This jacket, though a few seasons old, is very close to McCoy’s current “Steinbeck” model, which retails for 194,000 yen, roughly equivalent to $1600 USD.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 23-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

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1950s All Weather Garment goatskin bomber jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271820684029
This vintage jacket was made in California in the early 1950s from imported Goat Skin. It was made by All Weather Garment. The jacket is made in a post-war “bomber jacket” style, which takes elements of the A-2 flight jacket and melds them with other pre-war civilian styles to make something new. The jacket has patch pockets with scalloped pocket flaps and angled corners, epaulettes, a shirt style collar, knit cuffs and waistband and a Talon zipper of the style only used in the early 1950s, with the unmarked wide rib stopbox and square hole slider. The jacket has a quilted liner. With a 54″ chest, this would best fit someone who wears a 48-50 long. These early jackets are difficult to find in these larger sizes, especially in such an excellent state of preservation.

Chest (pit to pit): 27″ (doubled = 54″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 21-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to end of knit): 27″
Length (base of collar to end of waistband): 26-1/2″

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1930s shawl collar leather barnstormer coat

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271820768421
This vintage leather coat was made in the 1930s. It is double breasted, with a mouton collar, leather knot style buttons, fancy buttoned cuffs, handwarmer and flapped cargo pockets with arrow stitched reinforcements, and a covered curly sheepskin lining.

Chest (pit to pit): 24″ (doubled = 48″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 31″

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1940s Civilian B-2 leather flight jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281645136149
This vintage jacket was made in Kansas City, Missouri, as a civilian version of the US army B-2 Flight jacket, issued in the early 1930s, and replaced by the B-3 in 1934. The army version was made of horsehide, with a single breast pocket, attached belt zippered cuffs on the inside of the wrist, and a full alpaca lining and mouton collar. This jacket was produced with a civilian label and a few alterations to the pattern. This jacket is made from capeskin, and with handwarmer pockets instead the large breast patch pocket that was universally removed from the army production version. This jacket has an off-center Talon main zipper, with bell-shaped slider and unmarked diagonal-stripe sunburst stopbox. The sleeves have zipper cuffs, with early pattern United Carr snaps and bell shaped talon zippers. The jacket has heavy wear, and the label has been partially worn away. The remaining text reads “aviation” and “Kansas City Mo”. There is a remnant of what looks to be a wing logo. The size tag is of the black and yellow design used on military jackets, and the pocket linings are the distinctive shade of twill used in the linings of A-2 jackets. These details point to this jacket having been made as part of a specialized civilian aviator’s line by a manufacturer which held a military jacket contract.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 16″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24″
Length (base of collar to hem): 22″

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1930s Albert Richard Grizzly jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281655706660

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This vintage jacket was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin by Fried Ostermann between 1936 and 1938 under the Albert Richard Sportswear label. The jacket is made of front quarter horsehide leather, with mouton panels and collar. Originally sold as a “Laskinlamb jacket”, this style has come to be known by collectors as the Grizzly. These were popular in the mid to late 1930. The jacket has Albert Richard’s patented Tu-Length cuffs, which have buttons on either side, allowing them to be worn down for a longer sleeve or turned up and buttoned for a shorter sleeve length. The jacket has a Talon main zipper with a grommet style stopbox. The slider is of the deco sunburst design with oval slider-to-puller connection, which was only produced in the mid 1930s and which was replaced by a simpler design around 1938. The pull is a rectangular holed, plain backed version, also typical of mid 1930s production. The jacket is lined with plaid wool, with leather pit guards and ventilation grommets. The sleeves have knit storm cuffs to keep out the wind. The collar has a buttoned chinstrap throat latch to cinch it up tight in bad weather.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff, turned down): 26″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff, turned up): 24″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 21-1/2″

A history of Albert Richard which I wrote for “The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets”:
Fried-Ostermann was founded c.1902 as a glove manufacturer. They bought out their competitor, Price Gloves, and relocated production of that company’s products to their original factory, located at 617-645 Reed Street, Milwaukee, WI. By 1915, the company had gained a partner, and was known as the Fried, Ostermann, Meyer Co, but that looks to only have lasted until 1917. As the company grew, they relocated to 1645 S. 2nd Street, Milwaukee, WI.
Fried-Ostermann diversified out of gloves and into outerwear in the late 1920s with the formation of a new division of the company, called Albert Richard. The leather jackets, mackinaws, overcoats and sportswear produced by Albert Richard would soon come to eclipse the glove-making side of the company.
Pre-war advertising stressed health and sports, with endorsements from college football players. These ads also talk about bringing items of clothing which were previously thought of as workwear, like mackinaws and leather jackets, into the realm of ordinary streetwear, citing their comfort and durability.
During WWII, the Albert Richard factory made A-2 (contract AC 23383), M-422A (contract 1406A), M444A and M445A flight jackets under the name of their parent company, Fried-Ostermann. They advertised leather jackets, overcoats and sportswear heavily during WWII, giving their jackets model names like the “Spitfire” and the “Meteor”. During the war, the company gave away wall-sized posters showing a range of american military airplanes.
850 workers were employed by Albert r in 1946, with plans to hire another 400. The company was one of the first to use fiberglass insulation in coats, a technology borrowed from b-29 bombers Sheepskin collared “storm coats” became a signature model after the war.
President of Fried-Ostermann, Richard Fried, sold their Albert Richard Division to the Drybak corporation of Binghampton, NY in late 1952. Drybak, a maker of canvas hunting clothing was looking to diversify their line. In the deal, they got the licensing, branding, patterns, dealership network, but other than the Vice President and designer for Albert Richard, all of the employees and equipment stayed at the plant in Milwaukee. Fried-Osterman re-focused the attention of their plant on the production of gloves, and on producing leather jackets under house labels for mail order and department stores.
Starting in 1953, under Drybak’s ownership, Albert Richard clothing was once again produced, this time under contract at a factory in New Jersey, which Drybak declined to name. The plan at that time was to have production moved to New York by 1954. Labels were changed in this period to read “Albert Richard by Drybak”. In 1955, Drybak acquired the Martin Mfg. Co. in Martin, TN. They closed their Binghamton operations in that same year and relocated their hunting clothing manufacturing and their Albert Richard division to the Tennessee plant to take advantage of the lower labor costs in the south.



Swedish barnstormer leather coat

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/281691604819
This vintage jacket was made in Sweden. It bears their typical military label. This example appears to be dated either 1961 or 1981, though the basic style goes back to the 1920s. This one has been converted (and a well done conversion too) to a zipper closure from the original button closure. The jacket has raglan shoulders with epaulettes. It is fully lined. The zipper is a double Eclair, which is a bit fiddly, a problem of these two-way zippers.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Sleeve (center of collar to cuff): 33-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 34-1/2″

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1940s-1950s jeweled western belt

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400926387820
This vintage belt was made in the late 1940s – early 1950s. It is made of black leather with a floral pattern, a western belt buckle with metal tip and loop, studs and red and green jewels. It is tagged a size 30, so it would probably work best for someone with a 28″ waist. Although difficult to read, it appears to be stamped that it was made in San Francisco.

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1950s D-Pocket leather jacket biker cut

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400926403996
This vintage leather jacket was made in the 1950s, and was likely sold by Sears under the Fieldmaster label. This is distinguished as one of the earlier production Sears D-pockets by the small Talon zipper (before they switched to either larger Talons or Serval zips). This has a separate square bottomed patch pocket cigarette pocket, which was replaced by the late 1950s-early 1960s by a internal pocket with just the flap. The D-pocket is also a separate piece of leather, while on later manufactured versions (with either the Oakbrook or Leather Shop labels) the pocket was accomplished with stitching and a welt. This also has a tunneled belt loop through the kidney panel rather than the attached quarter belts of later versions. The earliest Sears branded D-Pockets were produced under contract by Buco in Detroit, Michigan, while later 1950s versions were produced in California. At some point, this jacket was used by a member of a biker gang, as evidenced by stitch marks left by the removal of a club insignia and top and bottom rockers. The Harley Davidson patch, which would have been added by the jacket’s owner, and which would not have been the property of the club, is still on the jacket’s kidney panel. With a chest measurement of 46″, this would fit a 42 if worn over a shirt, or roughly a 38-40 if worn over a denim jacket

Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Waist (side to side): 18-1/2″ (doubled = 37″)
Shoulder to shoulder:19″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

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1950s W.B. Place deerskin jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400926470278
This vintage jacket was made in Hartford, Wisconsin in the late 1950s-1960s by W.B. Place & Co, Deerskin Tanners, makers of Gloves and Jackets. It is made of deerskin in a classic utility jacket style. It has patch pockets, a square front and back yoke and a main Talon zipper.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17-1/2″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24-1/2″

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1930s leather kidney belt

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400937783023
This vintage kidney belt has a classic riveted, three buckle design. The original owner has tooled in a heart in the center and sets of initials, though all the writing is now faint.

Smallest hole: 29″
Largest hole: 32-1/4″

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Californian leather jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271906298389
This vintage jacket was made by the California Sportswear Company of Los Angeles, California under their Californian label.

Tagged size: 44
Chest (pit to pit): 23″ (doubled = 46″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 26″
Length (base of collar to hem): 21″

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Denver Colorado made custom deerskin leather jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271906309034
This vintage jacket was likely made in Denver, Colorado in the 1950s. It is made of deerskin leather, and has all the unusual details which I have only found on Denver based custom makers, like the trapezoidal reinforcement stitching at the base of the bi-swing shoulders, the button front, the slightly narrower than typical belt to the half-belt back, the style of pleats to the back, the flapped patch pockets, the extra long cuffs, the seam in the lining at the belt-line. This one doesn’t have a label, but A.T. Hendrick is one of the Denver makers which also exhibit all the eccentricities of this pattern. I have had other jackets of theirs from the late 1930s and 1930s. This one feels a bit more refined, a bit later, but still has the distinctive detailing held over from the patterns of the 1930s, modified with a bit of extra length, an additional breast pocket, and tweaks to the collar.

Chest (pit to pit): 22″ (doubled = 44″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 29-1/2″

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1940s Grais Sportswear leather half-belt jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400938380661
This vintage leather jacket was made by by Grais – Sportswear with Grace in the 1940s. It has a half-belt, pleated back, a surcoat length cut, a tunneled, elasiticized belt with a single button closure, a blacked out Talon of mid-late 1940s manufacture, and ring pull chain zippers on the dual breast pockets. The cargo pockets are flapped and there are buttons on the cuffs.

Chest (pit to pit): 20″ (doubled = 40″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 17″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 24-3/4″
Length (base of collar to hem): 27-1/2″

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Swedish Leather tanker jacket reproduction

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400946560413
This vintage jacket was made in the 1980s France by Alvin York, heavily influenced by the eccentric design of the 1940s Swedish leather tanker jacket. There’s something interesting about a jacket being made in France, reproducing the style of a Swedish jacket of the 1940s, while using the name of Sgt. York, a WWI American war hero on the label. The jacket is made of heavyweight two-tone suede. Like the original, it has a band collar, an internal row of fasteners with a wide wrap which fastens by the side seam, and that oh so distinctive large map pocket right in the center of the chest. This version adds handwarmer pockets and trades out some of the fiddly buttons and fasteners of the original for simpler, and more practical given the material, snaps. Just like the originals, this one sports a generously oversized cut. While it’s a 1940s design, the whole package still looks futuristic today.

Chest (pit to pit): 26″ (doubled = 52″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 19″
Waist (side to side): 19″ (doubled = 38″)
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (base of collar to hem): 24″

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Early 1930s cut down Cossack Jacket

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271934443374
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1930s, probably between about 1930 and 1934. This style, with the plain back, side panels with buckle adjusters, leather waistband and small patch pockets, was one of the first jacket styles to become popular following the invention of the separable bottomed zipper in 1930. The jacket has a buttoned throat latch / chinstrap, and while the zipper is a 1950s Conmar, replacing what would likely have been a double branded Hookless/Talon, the grommets from the original zip are still in place at the waistband.

Chest (pit to pit): 18″ (doubled = 36″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 15″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

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1950s Buco J-24 horsehide leather motorcycle jacket

$
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/271935645735
This vintage jacket was made in the early 1950s in Detroit, Michigan by the Joseph Buegeleisen Company (Buco) out of horsehide. It is their J-24 D-Pocket model motorcycle jacket. From the style of stop box on the main zipper, with its wide ribs, but without the Talon name, this one was made between about 1952 and 1957. The jacket has a D-pocket map pocket with a rounded cornered cigarette pocket. It has zipped sleeves, snapped lapels, snapped belt loops for an external belt, bars on the epaulettes, zippered side storage, a handwarmer pocket, and bi-swing shoulders. At some point, it appears the original owner either broke the main zipper or gained weight, and added snaps, which are offset from the original zip position.

Chest (pit to pit): 21″ (doubled = 42″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25″
Length (base of collar to hem): 23-1/2″

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1940s Golden Bear leather jacket

$
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/400986630457
This vintage jacket was made in the 1940s by S. Slater & Son of San Francisco, under their Golden Bear label. The jacket is made of goatskin, with a full belt, pleated back, yoked front and back, handwarmer pockets concealed inside the front vertical seams, and flapped cargo pockets. It has a talon zipper with a rectangular holed pull and Talon marked “U” stopbox, which put its date of manufacture between about 1944 and 1948.

Chest (pit to pit): 21-1/2″ (doubled = 43″)
Shoulder to shoulder: 18″
Sleeve (shoulder to cuff): 25-1/2″
Length (Base of collar to hem): 27″

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